Petrol Fuel Tank Removal

Empty First

There is no drain plug. Work with the tank nearly empty, or depressurise (W-460), pull the filler cap to equalise tank pressure, then siphon or hand-pump the rest into a sealed can. Another route is to run the pump into a container from the filter feed with the ignition on; fire risk is real, so no sparks and a clear bay. Reconnect that hose afterwards.

Cabin And Underbody

Ignition off. Lift the rear seat base cushion, prise the floor grommet for the pump and sender plug, and unplug the module. Chock the fronts, raise the rear safely on stands. On petrol 2WD, clear the fuel filter area as needed, free the carbon-canister vapour pipe (aged plastic goes brittle: do not twist it), and release the breather clamp. Slack the filler hose clamp and pull the hose.

On 4WD, remove the propeller shaft, remove the front silencer, then lower the final drive about 75 mm on a jack with a wood pad: take the mount bolts, drop the unit, hang it on straps or chain from the subframe, and remove the jack. Filler clamp access is poor. Free the canister vapour hoses over the axle the same careful way, and disconnect the supply to the filter.

Straps And Drop

Support the tank on a trolley jack. Undo the front bolt of each strap (25 Nm on refit), free the straps from the body, and check strap and underbody seats for damage. Confirm every pipe and plug is free, then lower the tank square off the filler stub. Residual fuel shifts as the tank tips: keep it level. Inspect for cracks or dents; sediment comes out with clean fuel rinse or steam. Tank or filler repairs belong to a shop that knows fuel work. Refit is reverse: engage the filler hose as the tank rises, new seals where modules were disturbed, then check for leaks with the pump pressurised before a long drive.