Battery Care, The Eye, And A Slow Charge

Where It Sits

Left front corner of the bay, cover clipped on. Check the tray and the clamp. You should not be able to twist the posts. Frayed cables get replaced, not taped forever.

The original battery has an indicator eye in the lid: green is charged, clear or red wants a charge or a new battery. White fluffy corrosion comes off with water and baking soda, then a rinse. Damaged metal gets a zinc primer and paint. A smear of petroleum jelly on the clamps after they go back on slows the next crop.

Disconnect And Charge

Earth (negative) lead off first, back on last. The electrolyte is dilute sulphuric acid. Hydrogen is always in the cells: no flame, no smoke, no sparks, charge in moving air, unplug the charger before the clamps move.

On a serviceable battery the level sits about 10 mm above the plates, or between the marks on the case. Low: vent cap off, distilled water, do not flood it. Overfill spills during a heavy charge and eats the tray.

A flat battery that will not crank is happiest on a one or two amp trickle. A boost charger (trickle type, under about 5 A) is kinder than a big rapid pack. Rapid packs heat the plates and are an emergency tool. A trickle job is often 12 to 16 hours. Short-trip cars in winter need this more than a motorway diesel.