Door Locks And Central Locking

Before You Strip A Lock

Central locking on these cars has self-diagnosis. Have a Jaguar dealer or a shop with the right kit read the system before you pull hardware. Door, boot and tailgate lock logic sits in the Generic Electronic Module (GEM), which also runs the indicators and the electric windows.

The door lock actuator is built into the door lock. The boot or tailgate actuator is built into that lock. You do not renew a separate motor; you renew the lock assembly.

Front Door Lock

Remove the window regulator and glass so you can reach the lock. Undo the screw, release the two clips and take off the lock security shield (new clips are often needed; note how the lug at the top of the shield sits in the door-frame slot). Disconnect the exterior-handle and lock-cylinder rods from the lock. Undo the three Torx screws at the rear edge of the door and lower the lock out. Unplug the lock, pull the outer release cable from its bracket, and free the inner cable end.

Rear Door Lock

Close the window fully. Remove the inner trim and only the rear section of the weathershield. Disconnect the exterior-handle rod, undo the three Torx screws at the rear edge, lower the lock, unplug it, and free the interior release cable.

Exterior Handle And Cylinder

With the security shield off and the rods free, work through the door apertures: remove the handle retaining screws and walk the handle out. The lock cylinder turns anti-clockwise out of the handle once the handle is off.

Refit is the reverse. Do not close the door until you are sure the lock opens from inside and outside. A shut door with a dead lock can mean cutting the outer skin to get back in. Prove central locking before any trim goes back on.